When powering at any speed over 6 mph, make sure the centerboard is all the way up. At high speed, with the board down, the board will create lifting forces to the right and left as the boat moves thru the water, making it very, very unstable. This could possibly cause capsize. Check frequently to make sure the board stays up during powering. Use both the cleats to secure the line. This is important. Re-read the first item on the "warnings" list at the beginning of these instructions.

Do not power at over 5 mph with the sails up. If you are going 20 miles per hour in calm air, and the boat is turned, it will slide sideways and you will now have a wind of 20 mph filling your sails. The result could be an instant capsize. The problem is made worse by the fact that your water tank will probably be empty while powering, making the boat more prone to capsize.

Make sure the mast support wires are tight when powering fast. The pounding and slamming can otherwise make your mast really rattle around.

You can relax the tension on the friction device on your outboard to let the motor turn from side to side freely when you are powering at higher speeds. With some engines, at high speed, when you turn the tiller, the motor will turn by itself to stay aligned with the rudders. Other engines seem to work better when you lock them securely in the centered position and steer just with the rudders. You can use the motor to steer, but the rudders work better, because the amount the motor can turn is limited. At real low speeds, especially in reverse, the steering with the motor and tiller give excellent control. At low speed, or when going In reverse, keep a good grip on the motor's tiller to keep the motor from turning itself.

The turning radius at high speed it relatively large, so allow yourself lots of room.

Many outboard motors have a kill switch that shuts off the engine if you fall out of the boat. This involves a cable that attaches to the switch and to you. It is an excellent safety feature, and should be used.

BOAT MAINTENANCE

LEAKS:

It is a good idea to check the watertank, cockpit, outboard well and galley vents and drains to make sure all connections are tight and waterproof. Check the water ballast valve for leakage as described earlier. Pull the boat out of the water frequently with the water tank full. If the centerboard and cable bolts are leaking, you will see water coming out of them. They will require resealing as described in the Centerboard section.

RUDDERS:

Inspect all rudder connections frequently. Make sure the rudder pivot bolts are pulled down tight enough to keep the rudders from flopping around in their housings, but loose enough that they can be raised and lowered without undue pressure.

INSPECTING THE HULL AND DECK:

Periodically Inspect the boat for cracks, delaminations, blisters or signs of impact damage. Gel coat, the outer cosmetic finish, is fairly brittle and occasionally cracks and crazes where it is stressed. This is normally cosmetic only. If crazing appears, check to see if the fiberglass itself, and not just the colored gel coat, is damaged.

INSPECTING MAST SUPPORT WIRES:

The mast support wires should be checked frequently to make sure there are no broken strands. If you find a broken strand, replace the wire immediately.

INSPECTING HARDWARE:

Also check all bolted-on hardware to make sure everything is tight and leak proof. Squirt the boat with a hose and look for leaks. If one is found, make sure the bolts are tight and all joints are sealed.

EXTERIOR FINISH:

The fiberglass finish should be protected in the same manner as an automobile finish. An occasional polishing and waxing (with any good quality automotive polish and wax) will keep the surface in excellent condition. If the boat is left in the water (either fresh or salt water), apply a good coat of anti-fouling bottom paint with an epoxy undercoat. Without good bottom paint and epoxy primer, the white gel coat exterior surface may blister.